While it is frustrating not to have objects behave as expected, I also find that this can be a very fun challenge. Asking myself ‘why doesn’t my knitting machine work?’ is an invitation to better understanding all the little brushes, switches, flappers, and levers that are interacting between the machine bed and the carriage. Non-electronic knitting machines are (presumably) a solvable equation. If it doesn’t work, there is almost certainly something you can fix about it (although it might require replacement parts up to and including a whole ‘spare parts’ machine). No advanced degree in machine knittery or rocket science required.
But mechanical aptitude and willingness to experiment are valuable attributes. I will point out that I’m far more apt to experiment on the knitting machine than other types of things around the house. Our furnace, for example, is temporarily knocked out and while we have opened it up and adjusted and cleaned some things to temporary good effect, I am quite ready to have a professional look at that dangerous and integral system. See? After staring at the guts of my furnace and all it’s gas and electrocution hazards, knitting machine repair seems like quite a soothing hobby! The worst the knitting machine can do to me is snag my yarn and suck away my time. It’s all about perspective.
Since I have 3 machines in my home that require some TLC and trouble-shooting, I think it’s time I develop a process.
Here’s my first few steps in assessing the “health” of a new-to-me knitting machine, (and I expect this process to evolve with practice):
- Check for really obvious missing parts (refer to manual for what should be present), look for bent/broken needles. Try running the knitting carriage back and forth a few times. If all goes well, no carriage jamming, move on to step 2. If carriage jamming, skip ahead to step 4, Trouble shooting.
- Basic cleaning and lubrication – this means brushing needle beds and carriage with a medium-firm brush, removing excess lint, and rubbing everything with a soft cloth that has knitting machine oil on it.
- Check the sponge bar – if it has a sponge bar. Disintegrating or permanently squished sponge bars are a really common problem in used knitting machines. It’s an easy, relatively cheap part to replace. I have read elsewhere that if the spongy part sits less than 3/8″ above the metal part, you should replace it.
- Try to knit a basic sample per machine manual instructions. If that succeeds, great! Move on to a test of the punch card operations, and then the lace carriage (if applicable). If knitting a basic sample fails, move on to trouble-shooting mode.
- Trouble shooting mode. From here, I want a flow chart… but until I develop one, here is a nice chart on Needles of Steel for Troubleshooting tips.
So far, I have one machine (the KH 881) that won’t close stitches and I’m hoping it’s the sponge bar because I just ordered one for it, and the other machines (the bulky and the KH 800) are knitting the basics fine but may have other issues.
I’m also hoping to try Jack’s cleaning method, from The Answer Lady Knits & Ask Jack video series. I watched a bunch of the videos while I was home sick one day last week. It was kind of like listening to the Click & Clack of knitting machines. The two people have a great rapport and cover a lot of really useful material about how to clean, test and repair knitting machines. So far though, I haven’t noticed a video that covers a starting troubleshooting process for the beginner, which is why I want to develop my own process.
Also, it might be worth noting that, if you don’t feel you have the wherewithal to troubleshoot and repair your own knitting machine, people like Jack or others can be paid to service your machine.
Until next time… keep those needle beds zipping!